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Beyond Mont Blanc: The Other Haute-Savoie

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While France sweltered through a summer heatwave, I was swirling a chunk of bread into a bubbling pot of molten cheese. I’m 1,500 metres above the valley floor, at Chalet Neige et Roc’s mountain refuge above Samoëns. The evening air has cooled, the sound of cowbells carries across the pastures, and the peaks of the Haut-Giffre rise above the valley. The fondue is a blend of Beaufort…

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