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Restaurant Review: Le Bus Palladium, Paris

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Ever since I went to Livingston, a tiny restaurant on a back street off the Cours Julien in Marseille, I have been dreaming of young chef Valentin Raffali’s stunningly elegant cooking from the canon of Escoffier. On that rainy night, we ate a terra cotta-coloured fish soup that immediately became my new definition of a great fish soup. Rich, ruddy, and potent, it was served with focaccia…

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