Many people come to Grenoble to go up. The city sits between three Alpine massifs, so it is easy to treat it as a launchpad for the mountains. On my train from Paris over a bank holiday weekend, the carriages were full of hikers and cyclists, with poles and helmets tucked above the seats. But before it was a base for weekend climbs, Grenoble was a place people needed to control. Roads, rivers…
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