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French Restaurant Review: Elsass, Paris

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I’ve had a soft spot for regional French cuisine ever since I crossed the Channel too many decades ago. This category of restaurant was something I discovered by accident, since the only French regional dish I knew when I lumbered off a Hovercraft in Calais in the rain, temporarily deaf as a post, on a Sunday afternoon was quiche lorraine. Finally arriving at my hotel on the rue de l’…

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