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French Restaurant Review: Gloria Osteria, Paris

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When it opened in the late ’80s, Le Télégraphe instantly became one of the most modish tables on the Left Bank of Paris. It was a conveniently short walk from the then new Musée d’Orsay, making it perfect for lunch, and it had a charming setting in the former refectory of a residence for telegraph operators with a tile floor, high ceilings, rounded arches and many potted palms. The menu ran to…

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